Wave Simulation, Measurement, and Analysis

Understanding ocean waves is critical for coastal protection, offshore engineering, and marine operations. This course guides you through the core principles of wave theory, measurement technologies, and data analysis. You will progress from learning basic wave definitions to understanding how wave fields are simulated numerically and analyzed using spectral methods. By reading through practical explanations and code-focused examples, you will gain the confidence to interpret wave data and apply simulation concepts to real-world marine engineering challenges. What you'll learn: Understand foundational wave theories, including linear wave theory and shallow water approximations; Explore wave measurement techniques using in-situ buoys, pressure sensors, and modern remote sensing; Learn the principles of numerical wave simulation and spectral wave models; Analyze wave time-series data using spectral analysis and statistical methods; Apply wave forecasting concepts to assess coastal hazards and design parameters; Evaluate wave transformation processes such as refraction, diffraction, shoaling, and breaking. The course begins with essential wave physics and terminology before moving into measurement technologies and data processing techniques. You will then explore numerical modeling concepts and spectral analysis to complete your understanding of wave dynamics. This course is designed for beginner coastal engineers, marine scientists, and students looking for a solid foundation in wave mechanics and analysis, with no prior modeling experience required. Start reading today to build your expertise in wave simulation and analysis.